NEIGHBOURHOOD GUIDE: MARYLEBONE, LONDON

May 27

Despite its location just a couple of minutes walk from the absolute madness that’s Oxford Street, the effortlessly chic vibe of Marylebone makes you feel like you’ve stumbled across one of London’s secrets for locals in the know. Somehow the area managed to retain its distinct village feel with stunningly picturesque Georgian and Victorian aesthetics, a mix of independent shops, cafes and restaurants, a bustling weekly farmers market and peaceful off the radar green spaces.

The neighbourhood of Marylebone is bordered by the aforementioned Oxford Street to the south, Edgware Road to the west and Great Portland Street to the east. The northern boundary is more fluid with some people pointing to the Marylebone Road whilst others (including me) also include the area around Marylebone train station (the clue is in the name, right?) and parts of the Regents Park.

I visited here many times over the years but really got to know the area over the two years of studying for my masters at the University of Westminster’s Marylebone Road campus. Since then I’ve been hanging out here regularly as Marylebon’s central location makes it a perfect meeting point when catching up with friends from across town.

In this guide I’ve rounded up all my favourite places to shop, eat, drink and see in and around Marylebone. Hopefully they’ll come in handy when exploring this stylish neighbourhood.

THINGS TO SEE & DO

MARYLEBONE ARCHITECTURE

If you love architecture, you’ll really enjoy wandering around Marylebone. The neighbourhood is an absolute treasure trove of perfectly preserved rows of elegant Georgian terraces, Victorian mansion blocks and striking Art Deco style buildings.

One of my favourites are Hyde Park, Oxford and Cambridge Mansions near Marylebone Flyover just round the corner from the Edgware Road tube station. The deep Marsala coloured terraced mansions were built for the rich middle classes who wanted the grandeur of country mansions but will all the conveniences of the city living such as

At the northern end of Chiltern Street you’ll find elegant Portman Mansions built during the 1890s and designed by Henry Saxon Snell, an architect who usually specialised in workhouses and hospitals. Make sure to look up to admire the gables topped with a range of fierce and threatening terracotta beasts including a monkey, a row of dragons and even what appears to be Quasimodo, the Hunchback of Notre Dame.

Further along Chiltern Street, above the boutique shops and the stylish cafes, you’ll find apartments known as Wendover Court. Unlike the mansion blocks I mentioned earlier, these were built originally as a philanthropic project to give working classes good homes at cheap rents (they’re anything but cheap these days though!). Once again, take time to look up and admire the facades adorned with faces of Neptune, the god of water, with rainwater drains coming out of his mouth.

THE WALLACE COLLECTION

If you’re after a cultural fix, head over to The Wallace Collection. This beautiful museum is completely free to visit and houses one of Europe’s finest art collections including the famous views of Venice by the 18th-century master Canaletto. My mum used to have an album full of photographs of Canaletto’s paintings sitting on a shelf in our living room and I still remember looking through it wide eyed and completely in awe of the beauty of the Italian city as an eight or a nine year old. The extensive art collection was brought together by the first four marquesses of Hertford and Sir Richard Wallace, the likely illegitimate son of the 4th Marquess, before being gifted to the public. The former private residence of the family was then converted into a public museum.

Don’t miss stopping by the absolutely the most gorgeous courtyard restaurant and cafe to enjoy lunch or an afternoon tea!

SHERLOCK HOLMES MUSEUM

Walk up towards the north west corner of Marylebone and you’ll find probably the most famous tourist attraction in the neighbourhood. In a Georgian townhouse, as close as possible to Conan Doyle’s imagined 221B Baker Street where the fictional detective lived, there’s a museum dedicated to Sherlock Holmes. The interior spread over four storeys is a full replica of Holmes’s flat that lovingly recreates the gas-lit literary world of London’s iconic detective and his Victorian surroundings. Expect a mixture of period furniture and various memorabilia referenced in the books, such as a magnifying glass, an old copy of The Times, a pipe, a chemistry kit and a violin.

Although not my favourite of London tourist attractions (but then I’m not really a massive Sherlock Holmes fan), if you’re a fan of either Victoriana or the world’s most famous detective it’s worth checking out for an hour or two.

SHOPPING

DAUNT BOOKS

A must visit for any travel lover, Daunt Books on Marylebone High Street offers a seemingly endless selection of books centred around the theme of travel. There’s much more to it than guidebooks and coffee table titles too: you’ll find everything from history and political reference books to classical literature and popular fiction neatly arranged by country over three floors. They don’t just focus on the more popular destinations either so if you’re looking for travel related content on the likes of Afghanistan or Antarctica you’ll be sure to find it here.

Take some time to admire the beautifully preserved interior of this original Edwardian bookshop with with high ceilings, long oak galleries, stained glass windows and skylights flooding the space with light. It’s a real feast for the eyes!

SHREEJI NEWS

I love nothing more than sitting down with a beautifully printed magazine and getting lost in the beautiful photographs and stories of breathtaking destinations, adventures and creativity. Shreeji News shop on Chiltern Street stocks all my favourite titles including Lodestars Anthology, Suitcase, Rucksack and Cereal travel guides and I’m sure to stop by for a browse anytime I’m in the area.

But Shreeji News isn’t your average newsagent. It also serves coffees and pastries that are best enjoyed whilst people watching at one of the outside bistro tables. And at the rear of the shop in the Alice in Wonderland style maze of stylishly designed rooms they regularly host events including book/magazine launches and signings and pop up art exhibitions.

LABOUR & WAIT

Labour & Wait sell a carefully curated selection of timeless products including homeware, clothing, accessories and stationery that celebrate functional, artisanal design and heritage brands. Think enamel kitchenware, rough-woven Welsh blankets, Japanese canvas tool bags and French soap flakes.

FOOD & DRINKS

CHILTERN FIREHOUSE

I spent way too much time debating whether to write about Chiltern Firehouse in the food and drinks section or architecture section of this guide because it fits in both equally.

At the southern end of Chiltern Street, the boutique hotel and restaurant is housed in a beautifully restored neo gothic Manchester Square fire station (opened in 1889 and one of the oldest in London). I love how the architects seamlessly and thoughtfully introduced modern design elements whilst being respectful of the building’s heritage and retaining many of the original elements such as the Portland stone facade with the LCC (London Country Council) and MFB (Metropolitan Fire Board) acronyms, the engine house doors, the triple height ladder shed and even the fireman’s pole!

The interiors are effortlessly chic, classically glamorous but contemporary at the same time.

The restaurant has been one of London’s most exclusive hot spots since opening in 2014 and it’s a prime spot for A list celeb spotting with the likes of Bradley Cooper, Jennifer Lawrence, Bella Hadid, Mark Ronson and Noel Gallagher casually blending in with the stylish local crowd. The coveted reservations might be a bit easier to score than they once were but still require a bit of forward planning especially on Friday and Saturday nights and for the weekend brunch.

ST JOHN

The St John brand has been a staple on the British fine dining restaurant scene for nearly thirty years. The original St John restaurant was founded in 1994 by chef Fergus Henderson and his business partner Trevor Gulliver in a converted smokehouse near the Smithfield meat market and pioneered the concept of nose-to-tail cooking (where every part of an animal is used including offal, bones and cartilage) before it became a trend. Consequently the Michelin starred St John became a blueprint for many noteworthy restaurant launches since and the kitchens at many of today’s hottest foodie spots in the city are led by St John alumni.

Their latest outpost in Marylebone (which opened in December 2022) has been the brand’s first restaurant launch in more than a decade. It’s an all day affair where in the mornings you can enjoy a coffee alongside doughnuts, breads and pastries from their own bakery in Bermondsey before the space transitions into a small plates restaurant with a daily changing menu throughout lunchtime and into the evening.

MONOCLE CAFE

Faces of Neptune the God of Water, Wendover Court

Monocle was originally launched by Tyler Brûlé in 2007 as a monthly magazine briefing on global affairs, business, culture, design but since then the brand grew to become a bit of an institution releasing a magazine, seasonal and event-focused newspapers, a series of travel guides and stylish coffee table books on anything from shops, through slow living to starting and running your own business. They also run a 24-hour radio station, a series of podcasts on various topics, a daily email newsletter, retail stores, and cafés in Tokyo and London.

Their cafe on Chiltern Street has been designed by the magazine's senior designer Yoshi Takagi and is a warm and welcoming space with japandi aesthetics including an artfully crafted red oak wood counter. The cafe serves Allpress coffee alongside a selection of pastries and snacks and it’s a perfect place for a spot of people watching.

AROME BAKERY

Arome Bakery has been one of my favourites in London ever since my first visit. They have another branch in Covent Garden but it tends to get much busier than the Marylebone one which is perfect for sitting down with a book or a magazine. The japandi interior (a medley of Japanese and Scandinavian aesthetics) is simple and functional. I love the combination of the artisan French baking techniques and Asian flavours and ingredients. Try their honey butter toast: a thick slice of caramelised honey Shokupan bread (japanese milk bread) that’s crunchy on the outside but soft and fluffy on the inside.

Apple Danish at Arome Bakery, Marylebone

BOXCAR BAKER

About fifteen minutes before they open you can expect an orderly queue starting to form outside Boxcar Baker and the place fills up really quick, especially on weekends. The interior is light and airy with plenty of natural wood and plants and they serve cakes, pastries, seasonal salads, sandwiches and brunch dishes with everything being made daily on site.

Grab a seat at the window counter or at one of the outdoor bistro tables and order one of their signature pain au chocolat. For breakfast I’d recommend scrambled eggs with tomato and a croissant roll or a scandi inspired plate of waffles with smoked salmon, sour cream & dill.

IRENE BAKERY

I’ve been a fan of Irene Bakery since they first opened in Camberwell in south east London - I mean an artisan sourdough bakery and a boutique wine shop and a bar is a winning combination. In July last year they opened their second outpost just a short walk from Marylebone Train station serving Gentlemen Baristas coffee, freshly baked bread, cakes and a selection of sweet and savoury pastries (you have to try their seasonal fruit danishes!).

In the afternoons (and into the evenings on a weekend) you can also enjoy a glass of wine from small producers in France, Italy and Spain using sustainable, organic, biodynamic and natural methods.

Colourful Interior of Irene Bakery in Marylebone

WATCH HOUSE

Since its humble beginnings in a former 19th century watch house on Bermondsey Street, Watch House might have expanded into a chain with twelve cafes around London but the brand sure stays loyal to its roots and retains the independent coffee shop identity.

The Marylebone cafe is located in the Chiron House, just around the corner from Marylebone High Street. Each of Watch House cafes is individually designed taking inspiration from the surrounding area and this one is no different with terracotta, terrazzo and mosaic materials being a nod to the mix of Georgian, art deco and neoclassical architecture styles seen throughout the neighbourhood.

At the heart of the minimalist space is a circular counter with a beautiful display of cookies and cakes and a custom brew bar to the side. There are plenty of tables available across two levels and the colour palette of yellow, gold, brown and green is calming and relaxing making it a perfect spot for a leisurely brunch

THE GRAZING GOAT

The Grazing Goat was the first ever gastropub I went to more than a decade ago and yet I can still vividly remember how blown away I was by their Sunday roast with the most tender pieces of beef that melted in my mouth. This was before London’s culinary scene exploded and gastropubs serving top restaurant quality food became ubiquitous so it felt even more special.

Today The Grazing Goat is still a solid choice for a Sunday lunch or a few afternoon drinks. It has a distinctly country vibe that’s all pale French oak and tulip wood and wouldn’t feel out of place in the Cotswolds. The atmosphere is busy but relaxed and there are rooms upstairs too if you’d like to stay overnight and make it your base for exploring the city.

SEYMOUR’S PARLOUR

To end the day with a cocktail in a classy and decadent surroundings that feel more like your posh aunt’s drawing room than a hotel bar, head to the Seymour’s Parlour. The dark and intimate candlelit lounge with the sound of jazz playing in the background is a perfect spot for an afternoon pick me up or an evening nightcap.

There is a short menu of twelve expertly crafted cocktails including their twist on some well loved classics such as paloma with tequila substituted for vodka and served with grapefruit soda and grapefruit shrub. There’s a good selection of snacks and sharing plates to soak up the booze too.

For a real treat, their afternoon tea which was recently named one of the top 10 best in London by Vogue magazine.

I hope you enjoyed this guide as much as I loved writing it. If you would like to show your support and contribute towards future content (or if you just want to fuel my caffeine addiction) you can buy me a coffee here .

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Dominika