12 HOURS IN RYE, SUSSEX

I’m sure you know how this goes. At the start of the year you make a resolution. You’re determined to make it work and for the first couple of months it actually goes well. But then life takes over and everything falls to pieces. 

This is exactly what happened to me. When I first started writing this blog back in February I told myself it would be a perfect excuse to take more weekend day trips and explore beyond London. But juggling a full time job, a masters degree, working on this blog and trying to maintain at least some sort of social life I got so busy I only managed two trips so far: a day in Oxford that I wrote about earlier this year and a summer trip to Cambridge with my mum. Also, as I’ve been to both cities a few times before it felt less like exploring and more like revisiting a familiar ground. 

So last month over brunch, feeling very guilty and determined for this resolution to not end up a total disaster I convinced a friend to book train tickets to Rye in Sussex. This picturesque medieval little town has been on my list for ages so I was really excited to finally get a chance to visit and late autumn turned out to be a perfect time of year to do that.

In this post I share with you my guide to the best things to see and do in Rye to help you make the most out of a day trip to this gorgeous town.

HOW TO GET TO RYE

There’s no direct train connection between London and Rye but don’t let that put you off as getting there is really easy. The quickest way at just over an hour to catch a Southeastern train from London St Pancras to Ashford International before changing for a Southern train to complete your journey. This is the most expensive option with prices starting at £36 return although slightly cheaper advance fares are available if you book in advance.

There are also slower and cheaper routes from London Charing Cross (taking around 2 hours each way) and London Victoria (this is the slowest option taking just under 2.5 hours). Flexible day return tickets start at £30 but if you’re on a budget and are flexible with your travel times it’s worth shopping around for cheaper advance fares. We booked our tickets just over a month in advance and they were only £15 return.

WHAT TO DO IN RYE

Rye is a small town with only around 9,000 residents so you can easily see most of the highlights in one day without feeling rushed off your feet (although if you’d prefer to take your time there’s plenty here to keep you entertained for a whole weekend too!). 

Start with a trip to Rye Castle Museum (there are two locations just a short walk from each other) where you can learn all about the town’s history, its inhabitants and the surrounding area. I’m sure the tales of local smuggler gangs and the town’s women spending their days stealing and engaging in extramarital affairs while their husbands were at sea will leave you on the edge of your seat! The staff are really passionate about the town’s past and love sharing their favourite stories.

Afterwards head over to Church Square and continue along Watchbell Street, down Traders Passage and onto the Mermaid Street, probably the most famous spot in town. Take your time to admire the perfectly preserved Tudor and Georgian architecture. The locals take real pride in their homes and it shows in caringly manicured hedges and climbing ivy, seasonal decorations and period knick knacks displayed on the window sills. Nearly every house has a cute name like The House with Two Front Doors, The House with The Seat and the Oak Cottage. Here you’ll also find The Mermaid Inn, a 15th century pub and hotel that used to be a favourite of the smuggler crowd. The story goes they used to keep their loaded pistols on the table as they sat and drank the evenings away.

The town maintains a strong sense of identity. There are no usual high street chain shops anywhere and instead along the idyllic high street you’ll find an eclectic mix of independent boutiques selling everything from local produce, candles to stylish homeware. My favourites are Ethel Loves Me and Simply Rye, both selling a carefully curated selection of locally sourced homewares, accessories, gifts and art. If you’re into antique bargain hunting, head over towards the river when you find a cluster of antique furniture stores and warehouses. 

Although it’s perfectly possible to fill your day entirely with independent boutique browsing, leisurely strolls through the cobbled streets and multiple coffee and cake breaks I’d recommend you make some time to visit Rye Harbour. This charming village is about half an hour brisk walk away from the town but the picturesque village is totally worth exploring. There are pretty weatherboard cladded fishermen houses, friendly pubs serving up the day’s catch and the 19th century Martello Tower, built to defend the area against Napoleon. The village is surrounded by a nature reserve and the scenery is absolutely stunning. Think saltmarshes, saline lagoons and shingle beaches. It was raining pretty much nonstop during our visit so we didn’t get to explore much but it’ll be great for a long walk on a sunny day.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN RYE

For such a small town, there’s sure plenty of places to eat and drink in Rye. It literally feels like every other building is a cafe, a tearoom or a pub, each one cosier and friendlier than the last.

My top cafe recommendation is Whitehouse, a contemporary cafe and bakery on the high street serving a range of picture perfect cakes and brunch dishes in a beautiful Tudor style room complete with timber wall panelling and a large stone and brick fireplace. It oozes understated elegance and cosy atmosphere and it’s one of my favourite cafe interiors I’ve ever been to.

Alternatively, if you’re in a mood for somewhere more modern, The Fig cafe (also on the High Street) is a great choice serving delicious coffee and lunch dishes made from locally sourced ingredients.

If you’re after a more traditional lunch or dinner, you couldn’t do better than The Mermaid Inn where you can feast on local country style dishes including Romney Marsh lamb, Rye Bay cod and Winchelsea beef. They also serve English wines from Chapel Down vineyard (probably the most well known English wine producer) which is just a twenty minutes bus ride away. And all that in beautifully maintained 15th century surroundings full of local history.

Before heading back to London, make sure you visit Rye Waterworks micropub for a pint of local beer or real cider (they also have a pretty impressive selection of gin and tonics if that’s more your thing). I’ve tried the pear and nettle cider, elderflower cider and a more traditional bramley apple cider and they were all delicious. The hosts are super friendly and love a bit of banter, and the crowd is a good mix of long time locals and visitors. Oh and did I mention the building they’re in is an old water pump house (Can you see a theme by now? There’s a story to every building in this little town!).

I hope you enjoyed this guide to the best things to see and do in Rye. I loved this charming town so much I’m already planning to go back for a weekend when it gets warmer so I can explore more. Have you ever been to Rye or any other picturesque little towns in England? Let me know in the comments!