TRAVEL GUIDE: WROCŁAW, POLAND

I’m going to be honest with you guys, growing up in Poland I used to think taking holidays in Poland was a bit lame and not a cool thing to do. After moving to London, for a long time I thought using up my precious annual leave on going to Poland was boring, instead favouring more exotic destinations. But over time I’ve acquired a new found appreciation for my home country, its trendy cities, beautiful natural landscapes and delicious food, and today Poland is one of my favourite countries to explore. I’m also amazed that it’s still (ok maybe except Kraków and Warsaw) such an undiscovered and underrated travel destination. 

I must admit, I always feel a little bit awkward traveling around Poland. I feel like I’m more than a tourist: after all I have the advantage of understanding the language and subtle cultural nuances. But at the same time I’m less than a local, my mannerisms and the way I dress always give me away. 

But let's get back to Wrocław! The fourth biggest city in Poland, it has been on my list for ages so I was really happy I finally got the opportunity to visit just before Christmas. The city has a young, trendy vibe with a large student population and has long been thought of as one of the coolest places to live in the country (many of my friends have moved to Wrocław over the years). Below, I share with you my recommendations and favourite spots to help you make the most of your visit to this fantastic city.

ARRIVING IN WROCŁAW

Getting from Wrocław international airport into the city couldn’t be easier. You have an option of taking an express shuttle bus which runs regularly throughout the day. The journey takes around 30 minutes to the central train station via Plac Dominikański (for the city centre). Tickets cost 10zł (around £2) and can be bought directly from the driver.

There are also regular city buses running between the airport and the central train station (line  106 or night bus line 206). The journey can take up to an hour depending on the traffic and a single trip tickets are only 3,40zł (around 70p).

If you have a lot of luggage or just don’t fancy navigating the city by public transport, I’d suggest getting an Uber which is exactly what I did. There are plenty of drivers signed up for the app and I’ve never had to wait longer than 5-10mins. Of course prices will depend on where in the city you’re staying but they’re a really good value. The ride from the airport to my hotel in the city centre came to around £5 including a tip! 

If you’re arriving in the city by train, the central train station is about 20mins walk from the main square and there are plenty of bus and tram lines too.

WHERE TO STAY IN WROCŁAW

There are plenty of accommodation options around the city whether you’re looking for a hotel, a hostel or an apartment. 

During my recent trip I stayed at the Puro Hotel which is a small boutique hotel chain with hotels in all major Polish cities. The hotel is perfectly located right on the edge of the old town, just a short walk from the market square and with plenty of bars and restaurants on the doorstep. The rooms are small but beautifully decorated in scandi style. They’re also super modern with everything from lighting, temperature and TV to the room service controlled from a tablet (the reception staff were super kind to explain how everything works).

I really liked the stylish communal areas on the ground floor. There’s plenty of space for people to sit down with a coffee and read a book, work from their laptops or just hang out and chat with friends. They also run a social calendar of events like yoga classes, guided city walking tours and PS4 sessions.

Oh and the small restaurant is perfect for an occasional cheeky nightcap too!

WANDER THE CITY STREETS

I know I say that every time but there really isn’t a better way to get to know a city than getting lost wandering the streets. Wrocław is full of beautiful architecture, cosy cafes and hidden treasures around every corner. The city is also home to more than 20 islands on the Oder river connected with the mainland by 117 bridges. The most famous ones include Słodowa, a popular hang out spot of local students, and Piasek, a green oasis and a departure point of river boat tours. 

Make sure you visit Ostrów Tumski, the oldest and most picturesque part of the city. This former island is home to the beautiful Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, the Archdiocesan Museum (currently closed for renovations) and a number of historic churches. But this neighbourhood is worth a visit even if you’re not into religious sightseeing. You can just relax walking through the streets lined with brightly coloured houses, admire the baroque architecture of university library and relax in the botanic gardens (open from April to October).

Walking through the streets of the old town you might notice portraits of famous Polish writers painted onto dummy windows of the townhouses. Amongst them are Tadeusz Różewicz (Wrocław local), Stanisław Lem (the most often translated Polish author) and Bruno Schulz. The portraits are a legacy of the Bibliopolis, a programme to introduce books into the cityscape and transform it into one huge library, and dates back to 2016 when Wrocław was the European Capital of Culture.

GO ON THE HUNT FOR THE CITY’S GNOMES

So, what’s with the gnomes you might ask. Well, during the communist era they were used as a calling card by an underground protest movement called Orange Alternative. After the fall of communism the gnomes were repurposed as playful city ambassadors much loved by locals and visitors. There are currently 382 of them around the city and new ones keep popping up all the time. They even have their own dedicated website where you can find short, light hearted bios, photos and a handy interactive map to help with your search. So if you’re looking for something relaxing to do in the city on a sunny day why not go on a leisurely self guided tour and see how many gnomes you can find.

ADMIRE THE PANORAMA OF THE BATTLE OF RACŁAWICE

I’ve learned about the Panorama of the Battle of Racławice at school but never truly understood the significance of it and how mind blowingly beautiful it was. This super realistic panoramic painting is 15 metres tall and 114 metres wide (yes, it’s not a typo!) and it’s a collaboration of nine famous Polish painters. This painting is so big that a new museum building was built specifically to house it. To add to the realism and make you feel like you’re in the middle of the action watching the battle unfold, three dimensional scenography blending perfectly with the painting has been built.

You buy tickets for a specific time slot. As you admire the painting, pre-recorded voice guides you step by step around the painting explaining different scenes and providing a bit of a historical background. If you don’t speak Polish, you’ll use an audio guide. Considering the viewing only lasts half an hour it really is a must do.

LEARN ABOUT THE CITY’S FASCINATING HISTORY

To really understand Wrocław you need to learn about the city’s fascinating history. It was founded in 985 and since then it was ruled by many different nations and it had almost 50 different names! from the 14th century onwards it belonged to the Czech Republic and was called Vratislav. In the 16th century it was ruled by Austrian Habsburg Empire. And finally in the 18th century it became German city of Breslau. The German influences are still evident throughout the city: as you walk down the wide avenues and admire the modernist architecture you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in Berlin. You can even find remnants of faded German shop signs and building names around the city.

Wrocław was returned to Poland after the second world war but it wasn’t all sunshine and roses. Germans who lived in the city for generations were immediately forced to leave and resettled as Polish people moved in. 

If you’d like to find out more about the city’s history and get a feel for what life was like in Wrocław and Breslau, head over to the History Centre Zajezdnia. In this 19th century red brick and glass bus depot, post war history of Wrocław comes to life through immersive exhibitions and interactive multimedia displays.

DISCOVER THE LOCAL STREET ART

In the working class district of Nadodrze, on Roosevelt Street, you’ll find a neighbourhood of old red brick tenement blocks which look a bit run down and like they haven’t been touched since the war. But don’t let that put you off because once you walk through a narrow alley and into the central courtyard you’ll enter a completely different world.

The 1,200m2 of street art covered walls you can see here are a result of collaboration between local artists and neighbourhood residents to brighten up the neighbourhood. The professionals hosted workshops to teach residents painting, sculpture and ceramics making, and everyone worked together to create these unique works of art. The murals depict everything from everyday life of the local community and portraits of all the residents’ dogs, through tributes to local football supporters, to the paradise garden and even underwater world. 

MARVEL AT THE RETRO NEON SIGNS

There’s just something really attractive about the warm glow of neon signs, isn’t it? It might be the retro vibe or the fact they really flatter just about any skin tone, or how they can transform the cityscape into something from a Bladerunner movie. 

Neon Side Gallery in Wrocław’s located in the courtyard of an old neon sign factory. It’s home to more than 30 signs salvaged from old companies, cinemas, shops and bars from around the country which no longer exist. For locals it’s a nostalgic trip down the memory lane and for visitors a trendy photo location. The walls underneath are covered with graffiti and the industrial buildings surrounding the courtyard really add to the effect. If you’re looking for something unique to do whilst in the city, this is a perfect spot to visit. It’s best to stop by in the evening when the neons look the most striking.

GET CULTURED AT THE CINEMA NEW HORIZONS

Polish film industry is internationally acclaimed and well respected. It gave us many great directors such as Roman Polanski, Krzysztof Kieślowski and Agnieszka Holland, and many great movies including Decalogue, The Promised Land and In Darkness. It even produces its own original Netflix series. If you’re looking for a way to spend an afternoon, head over to the Cinema New Horizons which is one of the largest art house cinemas in Europe and regularly screens Polish movies (both classics and new releases) with English subtitles.

SOAK UP THE MARKET ATMOSPHERE AT HALA TARGOWA

Hala Targowa is definitely Wrocław’s most impressive market hall. Starting from the Neo-Gothic architecture through to the sheer variety of stalls inside. Here you’ll find meat and fish, fruit and veg, funeral flowers and local crafts. It’s a great spot to people-watch as locals go about their everyday lives. 

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN WROCŁAW

I’ll let you in on a little secret. Polish food scene is so much more than dumplings, borscht and hunters stew! If you’re into modern creative cuisine focusing on local, high quality ingredients and seasonality then you’ll love it here. If you’re into good, sustainably sourced and expertly made coffee, instagrammable cakes and pastries, leisurely brunches and craft beer you’ll be in your element. 

I love checking out new cafes and restaurants whenever I visit and my trip to Wrocław was no exception. Here is a short list of some of my favourites finds:

DINETTE

Dinette is classy, beautifully designed in mid century modern style restaurant that has some of the nicest and friendliest staff! It’s one of the most popular breakfast spots in the city with a huge menu including delicious baked on site bagels with various fillings and much loved morning classics like waffles with crispy bacon and maple syrup.

In the evening it turns into a modern bistro with a short seasonal menu of inventive and beautifully presented dishes and delicious cocktails. We liked it so much we visited twice during our stay in the city. 

Plac Teatralny 8
Opening Hours:
Monday - Wednesday: 08:00 - 22:00
Thursday: 09:00 - 23:00
Friday - Saturday: 08:00 - 23:00
Sunday: 09:00 - 20:00

NIEINNA

Nieinna bakery and restaurant is perfectly located just around the corner from the market square. It’s a great spot for an early brunch (I’d recommend the scrambled eggs!) or wine and snacks later on.

Więzienna 31
Opening Hours:
Monday: 07:30 - 16:00
Tuesday - Wednesday: 07:30 - 20:00
Thursday: 07:30 - 23:00
Friday - Saturday: 07:30 - 24:00
Sunday: 07:30 - 22:00

POCHLEBNA

Relaxed and friendly, Pochlebna is a great all day eating and drinking spot. The food here is healthy but delicious and they also have a great selection of wine including some polish ones. There are also plenty of gluten free, lactose free and vegan options on the menu.

We visited for breakfast and had spelt waffles with seasonal fruit which were really yummy.

Świętego Antoniego 15
Opening Hours:
Monday - Thursday: 08:00 - 23:00
Friday - Saturday: 08:00 - 24:00
Sunday: 08:00 - 22:00

BISTRO CHARLOTTE

Bistro Charlotte is a bit of an institution in Wrocław and a perfect spot for brunch popular with both locals and visitors. They make their own bread and baguettes based on traditional french recipes and I find watching the chefs kneading and then expertly forming perfect loaves strangely hypnotising. The brunch menu features bread with various accompaniments from homemade preserves and honey to cheese and eggs.
Order the orange french toast, so simple yet so delicious!

Pasaż Pokoyhof, Świętego Antoniego 2/4
Opening Hours:
Monday - Thursday: 07:00 - 24:00
Friday: 07:00 - 01:00
Saturday: 08:00 - 01:00
Sunday: 08:00 - 22:00

ŁASKOTKI COOKIE DOUGH BAR

Łaskotki Cookie Dough Bar does exactly what is says on the tin: cookie dough served with ice cream and different toppings. I absolutely love the decor with deep red walls and tabletops, marsala coloured upholstery and lots of plants dotted around the space. The cookie dough is delicious and not too sickly and the staff are really friendly too. 

Stanisława Dubois 6/2
Opening Hours:
Monday - Sunday: 11:00 - 20:00

NANAN

Nanan is probably the most instagrammable cafe in Wrocław both for its pastel pink interior reminiscent of London’s Sketch and its individual cakes that look like little works of art almost too pretty to eat. But it’s not really surprising given it’s owned by a former pastry chef, food blogger and photographer.

But Nanan is certainly not just about the looks, the exquisitely crafted eclairs, cakes and macaroons taste really delicious too. So if you’re in the city and you’re looking for somewhere a bit more special, this is the perfect place!

Kotlarska 32
Opening Hours:
Monday: 12:00 - 20:00
Tuesday - Sunday: 10:00 - 20:00

KOPYTKARNIA

Let me start by explaining what ‘kopytka’ actually are. Directly translating to ‘little hoofs’, they’re traditional mashed potato dumplings made out of boiled potatoes, flour and eggs. They look a little like Italian gnocchi and can be served savoury or sweet.

In Kopytkarnia, a little deli in Nadodrze district, they’re served in more than 14 different ways including seasonal specials which change each month. If you’re looking for something cheap, filling, original and typically Polish to try, this is THE PLACE!

Kopytkarnia is a self service spot so grab a menu, find yourself a table and, once you’re ready, order at the bar. You’ll be given a buzzer which will vibrate when you’re food’s ready so you can collect it from the bar counter. Oh and make sure to take your plates back once you’re done.

Plac Bema 6
Opening Hours:
Sunday - Thursday: 11:00 - 22:00
Friday - Saturday: 11:00 - 23:00

I hope you enjoyed this guide to my favourite places in Wrocław as much as I loved writing it! And what about you? Have you visited Wrocław before (if so, I’d love to know your recommendations and I just might add them to the list for my next visit)? Or is it on your bucket list? Let me know in the comments!