TRAVEL GUIDE: EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND
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I don’t know about you but for me it feels amazing to be traveling again and to have my diary filled up with upcoming travels. Although I’m excited about being able to venture abroad more freely, I have also continued ticking off all the staycation spots on my list starting with a trip to Edinburgh back in February.
Scotland holds a very special place in my heart. You might not know this but back in my early twenties I spent a year living and working in a small town in the middle of the Scottish Highlands and Cairngorms National Park. I stayed in a stationary caravan, worked at a hotel doing everything from waitressing at breakfast to washing dishes, cleaning rooms and bartending in the evenings, and spent my free time hiking the spectacular landscapes. And it was here, surrounded by mountains, lochs and some of the warmest people I’ve ever met, that I grew from an idealistic, slightly naive, innocent teenager into a young adult. I returned a couple of years later for a few weeks to earn some extra cash before traveling through Europe but I haven’t been back since. Until this year that is.
And as I’ve just finished editing over 1k of photos I took during my trip to Edinburgh, I thought it’d be a perfect time to put together a short travel guide and share with you my favourite things to see and do in this beautiful city.
HOW TO GET TO EDINBURGH
There are regular trains from London King’s Cross (fast service by LNER takes approx 4.5 hours) and Euston (slightly slower Avanti West Coast service which takes approx 5.5 hours) and you arrive right in the city centre. Or if you want to make your journey more of an event you can also hop on the Caledonian Sleeper, one of the two remaining overnight cross country services in the UK.
There are also direct flights to Edinburgh Airport from all major European cities and a number of connections from London Heathrow if you’re coming from further afield. The airport is really well connected with trams and buses taking you to the city centre in just half an hour.
WHERE TO STAY IN EDINBURGH
Like any big city, there are plenty of hotel and holiday apartment options in Edinburgh to suit all budgets and travel styles. During this trip we chose to stay at 29 Queen Street which is a grade II listed Georgian townhouse in New Town that’s been converted into holiday apartments. The apartments are spacious with high ceilings, large sash windows and plenty of original features and each of them is unique having been individually designed around a particular colour theme. We stayed in apartment number 6 on the second floor with beautiful views over Queen Street Gardens and all the way towards the Firth of Forth.
Another great option is Eden Locke, a modern and thoughtfully designed boutique aparthotel on George Street in New Town. It offers apartment living with all the conveniences of a hotel. There is also a coworking space and a stylish cafe on the ground floor.
WHAT TO DO IN EDINBURGH
Edinburgh is a super walkable city if you don’t mind the hills and the steps, and the sometimes unpredictable weather. The Old Town and New Town neighbourhoods are both Unesco heritage sites full of charm and history.
This is by no means a complete guide but rather a collection of my favourite spots to give you a taste of this beautiful city.
EDINBURGH CASTLE
You’d most likely catch a first glimpse of Edinburgh castle as soon as your train pulls into the Edinburgh Waverley train station. Perched on top of the Castle Rock, rising above the western end of Princes Street, its impressive, imposing structure can be seen from any vantage point anywhere in the city.
The castle is made up of a collection of buildings dotted around a large cobblestone courtyard with the oldest being the 12th century St Margaret's Chapel. Each of them is like a little self contained museum focusing on a different element of Scotland's history.
We chose the worst possible day to visit with rain, sleet and what felt like a hurricane strength wind so rushed through the most important bits (it still took us nearly 2 hours) but you could easily spend half a day here on a sunny day.
OLD TOWN
The Old Town will captivate and mesmerise you with its cobblestone streets, rows of tall medieval townhouses built from ancient volcanic sandstone and hidden closes surrounded by tenements like treasure islands only accessible through narrow alleyways. Walk up the sloping curve of Cockburn Street which connects Market Street with the Royal Mile and is home to a selection of independent shops, galleries and cafes including the super instagrammable Milkman Coffee. Make sure to stop by Craig’s Close for a pretty view.
At the top of the street you reach the Royal Mile, the main thoroughfare leading all the way to the castle. There is plenty to explore so make sure to take your time. Must see stops include Chessel’s Court (where you find climbing ivy trimmed into a heart shape), Advocate’s Close (narrow stepped alleyway with beautiful views of the the Scott Monument) and Lady Stair’s Close (a picturesque courtyard surrounded by Arts & Crafts style tenement houses and home to the Writers’ Museum celebrating authors such as Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson).
Turn left at the top of Lawnmarket, just before you reach Castle Hill, and you come to Upper Bow above Victoria Street. This curved cobblestoned street with buildings on two levels is one of the most famous and most photographed spots in Edinburgh. It’s also one of the prettiest. When you’re done taking photos make sure to take some time to browse the independent shops.
NEW TOWN
Edinburgh’s New Town is the largest and best preserved example of Georgian architecture and town planning anywhere in the UK. Georgian style with neat rows of grand perfectly symmetrical facades, tall sash windows, porticos and pilasters influenced by classical architecture of ancient Greece and Rome is by far my favourite architectural period so walking around New Town was a real feast for the eyes.
Walk down Princess Street (that’s where you’ll find the majority of well known high street brands), stop by the Scott Monument (an imposing monument dedicated to Scottish author Sir Walter Scott) and explore Princess Street Gardens with Ross Fountain, Wojtek The Soldier Bear Memorial and beautiful views of the castle).
For upscale boutiques check out George Street which runs parallel to Princess Street and for the nightlife head to Thistle Street, named after the national flower of Scotland, with its many cafes, bistros and pubs.
CALTON HILL
Edinburgh is sometimes called Rome of the North (other times it’s referred to as the Athens of the North) because just like the Italian capital it has been built on seven hills. All of them offer spectacular views of the city and the surrounding countryside but (other than Castle Rock) Calton Hill is the most central and easily accessible being just a short walk away from the city centre.
Standing on top of Calton Hill you get a bird’s eye view of Edinburgh Castle, Old Town, Arthur’s Seat and rolling tops of the Pentland Hills and the coastal neighbourhood of Leith all the way to the Firth of Forth. The hill is also home to the collection of historic monuments inspired by the ancient Greek style including the National Monument (inspired by the Parthenon in Athens), Nelson Monument and the City Observatory.
DEAN VILLAGE
If you like your pretty instagrammable spots you can’t miss checking out Dean Village. This picturesque and tranquil spot is just a few minutes stroll from New Town and looks straight out of a Victorian storybook.
STOCKBRIDGE
Just a short walk from Dean Village and beside the Water of Leith is a hipster neighbourhood of Stockbridge. Popular with the arts, music and creative crowd, it has a laid back villagey feel. It is a perfect place to spend a relaxed Sunday exploring independent shops, indulging in a long boozy brunch at one of the local cafes or browsing the farmers market for artisan groceries, handmade accessories or delicious street food. A perfect spot to get away from the tourist trail and feel like a local, even just for a day.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN EDINBURGH
Edinburgh’s food and drink scene is thriving so whether you’re into specialty coffee, leisurely brunches, craft beer or atmospheric pubs you’ll be spoilt for choice. Because of the stormy, rainy weather I did a lot of cafe and restaurant hopping during this trip: some were exceptional, others a bit hit and miss. But out of all the places I visited these are my absolute favourites.
FORTITUDE COFFEE
This speciality coffee roastery has been my favourite find in Edinburgh. I visited their charming original York Place location with super high ceiling and a large crittal window letting in all the morning light as well as their Hamilton Place cafe in hip Stockbridge. There are solid espresso options and a good filter coffee menu alongside a selection of cakes and morning buns freshly baked at their Newington Road cafe/bakery. I am also now totally obsessed with the Studio Arhoj ceramics they use to serve their coffees in York Place.
THE MILKMAN COFFEE
The Milkman Coffee has two branches at both ends of Cockburn Street and you’ve probably already seen them all over Instagram. The original at the bottom of the street is located inside an old, lovingly refurbished confectionery store on the ground floor of a Scottish baronial style terrace. The original hand painted sign still remains, only adding to the charm of the facade. The second cafe, opened in autumn 2020 in a unique and equally photogenic curved building. Both branches are on the small side so there’s a good chance you will need to wait (or time it carefully) to get a seat (especially if you’re after the most coveted window seat) but it’s worth it both for the coffee and the cosy atmosphere.
MILK
Milk has three outposts in the city: one in the lively West End, one at the Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop in the historic harbour community of Newhaven and a container kiosk amongst the greenery of Inverleith Park. The city centre branch is a modern take on a traditional British caff: simple no frills decor, casual atmosphere and a friendly no nonsense service but the food is way beyond what you can expect to get at your ordinary greasy spoon. Their short but carefully curated menu is based on local, traditionally farmed seasonal ingredients, organic where possible and sustainably sourced. We tried rose and pistachio granola with forced rhubarb compote (fruits vary depending on the time of year) as well as a veggie breakfast plate - both looked and tasted fantastic.
THE QUEENS ARMS
If you’re looking for a traditional pub experience, The Queens Arms is a must. It might look unassuming from the street but once you’re inside it has tonnes of character with leather chesterfields, cosy table booths and bookshelves full of leather-bound classics. Come here especially for sharing Sunday roasts with perfectly cooked meat, huge Yorkshire puddings and generous sides (booking essential). Finish with a glass of scotch or a hot toddy on a cold day.
I.J.MELLIS
You might be wondering why I listed a cheesemonger amongst the must visit bars and cafes in Edinburgh. Well, I.J.Mellis is first and foremost an artisan British cheese shop that has been run independently for over 28 years but in the back of their Morningside store you’ll find a secret Cheese Lounge where you can enjoy a glass or a bottle of your favourite wine alongside simple comforting dishes like Welsh Rarebit, Raclette and Baked Camembert or of course their signature cheeseboard. They also hold regular cheese and wine tastings.
THE LOOKOUT BY GARDENER’S COTTAGE
Walking up Calton Hill is worth it just to enjoy the uninterrupted city views and admire the historic monuments but you can make it even more special by booking a table at The Lookout. The lovingly restored observatory house with floor to ceiling windows is a perfect spot to enjoy breakfast or dinner with a view. Time it for sunset to make it a truly spectacular experience!
SALT HORSE
Hidden at the bottom of Blackfriars Street in the old town, the Salt Horse is both a bar and a bottle shop with an excellent selection of both local and foreign beers. There are 12 options on draft and over 350 bottles/cans both from local Scottish breweries and further afield so you’re sure to find something that takes your fancy. And of course, as with any good bar, there are also snacks to soak up the booze including burgers, New Orleans inspired po boy sandwiches and chicken wings.
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