TRAVEL GUIDE: POZNAŃ, POLAN
I didn’t really know what to expect from my first visit to Poznań. It was never on my list of places to visit and I didn't really give much thought to what the city was like.
But having no preconceptions or particular expectations is actually a really good thing when visiting a new city as it lets you fully embrace it and experience it just the way it is without constantly comparing it to some imaginary vision you built in your head. As it turns out Poznań is awesome and has quickly risen to the rank of one of my favourite cities in Poland.
In this article I share with you my recommendations and favourite spots so you can get a feel for this amazing city for yourself.
ARRIVING IN POZNAŃ
We travelled to Poznań by train and arrived at the main railway station (Poznań Główny), nicknamed ‘Bread Bin’ by locals because of its shape. The large and busy station is attached to the side of an even bigger shopping centre and limited signage means finding your way around can be tricky (especially if you’re on the hunt for the elusive platform 4a!). Poznań is very well connected with train services from all around Poland and there are also regular direct trains to Berlin throughout the day if you fancy making it a multi city trip! (journey time is around 2 hours 50 minutes).
The train station is about 20mins walk or a 10min Uber ride from the historic old town.
Getting into the city from the Poznań international airport is equally easy. You can take one of the city buses which run regularly between the airport and the central train station (line 159) or trendy Jeżyce neighbourhood (line 148). The journey takes up to half an hour and a single trip ticket will set you back around £1.
For any other destinations or if you just don’t fancy navigating the city by public transport, I’d recommend getting a taxi or an Uber which operates throughout Poznań.
WHERE TO STAY IN POZNAŃ
There’s no shortage of hotels in Poznań whether you prefer large international chains to independent boutique hotels and, as Poland is still a very affordable travel destination, even five star luxury won’t break the bank.
If you’re looking for a modern, stylish and friendly boutique hotel I’d recommend Puro Hotel which is located less than 5mins walk from the main square. Part of a small chain of seven hotels in major Polish cities, Puro is sophisticated, beautifully designed in scandi style and the staff are really friendly.
If you prefer the freedom of having your own apartment, you can’t go wrong with Bliss Apartments . This small boutique company has five individually designed apartments conveniently located in the city centre. During my visit I stayed in the Miami apartment and absolutely loved it. Perfect to give you a little taste of everyday Poznań life!
TAKE A WALK AROUND THE OLD TOWN
Of all Polish cities I’ve visited so far, Poznań old town is the prettiest for sure! It’s the sort of place where you can happily just spend a couple of hours wandering around admiring the cobblestone streets and picture perfect pastel coloured buildings.
At the heart of the old town is an old market square surrounded on all four sides by neat rows of intricately decorated tenement houses. It’s home to a renaissance town hall which these days houses the city museum, brightly coloured merchant houses and the municipal scales which used to be the only scales in the city and where market traders could weigh their wares for a small fee. Museum of the Wielkopolska Uprising, Military Museum of Wielkopolska and Museum of Musical Instruments are also located in the square. You could easily spend a whole day here and not get bored!
LOOK UP TO WATCH THE MECHANICAL GOATS FIGHT
The mechanical billy goats in the town hall clock tower are certainly the most famous Poznań landmark.
Each day just before midday you’ll see crowds of tourists congregating in the market square directly in front of the clock tower in anticipation of the goats show. Exactly at midday the little door above the clock opens and two white mechanical billy goats glide out. Then they slowly turn to face each other and butt heads twelve times to mark the hour, accompanied by a trumpeter playing the city’s traditional bugle call.
VISIT THE ST MARTIN’S CROISSANTS MUSEUM
I’ve only learnt about the large sweet croissants with poppy seed filling that Poznań is famous for when I started researching things to do ahead of my trip to the city. Now that I’ve had a chance to devour a few (don’t judge!) I can confirm they’re super delicious and a must try when in Poznań. The St Martin’s croissants have been officially recognised by European Union as a product with Protected Geographical Indignation which means they can be produced only in the Wielkopolska region and only according to a specific recipe so they’re totally unique. Bakeries selling authentic St Martin’s croissants must display an official EU certificate in their window. There’s even a museum dedicated to the famous croissant!
The museum is located in a beautiful renaissance tenement house overlooking the main square. Grab yourself a ticket to one of the regular live shows where you can learn about the city’s history, people and unique local dialect, listen to legends about the St Martin’s croissants’ origin and even have a go at making your own!
HANG OUT IN JEŻYCE NEIGHBOURHOOD
We’ve actually run out of time to visit Jeżyce this time (which is a perfect excuse to go back to Poznań!) but it’s been hailed as Poznań's coolest neighbourhood and a beating heart of the city.
It’s a familiar story. Just a few years ago, this area was known mainly for high crime and poverty but in recent years it’s been completely transformed although luckily without losing its authenticity and unique character. Today the imposing Art Nouveau buildings are home to trendy cafes, independent boutiques and lively bars. Head to Jeżyce if you’re looking for a spot away from the tourists, where you can relax and soak up the everyday Poznań atmosphere.
EXPLORE THE HISTORIC ŚRÓDKA NEIGHBOURHOOD
Another neighbourhood worth exploring is Śródka. It’s a bit of a walk from the old town, on the other side of the Oder River and the Cathedral Island. This historic working class neighbourhood’s claim to fame is a large three dimensional mural called A Śródka Tale with Trumpeter on the Roof and Cat in the Background. Commissioned in 2015 it celebrates the history of the neighbourhood during the time when Poznań was the city of craftsmen and merchants. The mural became the catalyst for the revitalisation of this previously run down area as after the visitors came the trendy cafes, restaurants and shops.
LEARN ABOUT THE HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL ISLAND AT THE PORTA POSNANIA MUSEUM
The Cathedral Island is the oldest part of Poznań and supposedly the place where Poland was founded. According to a legend, three Slav brothers known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing each other for many years and to commemorate the event they named the place 'Poznać,' after the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ It became the oldest capital of Poland and the residence of the first royal dynasty of Piasts.
So it’s a little funny to recommend going to this historic neighbourhood to visit one of the most modern museums in the city. The minimalist concrete cube on the riverbank linked to the Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul by an illuminated glass bridge really stands out amongst the surrounding period architecture.
Porta Posnania is a museum with no physical displays. Instead it uses multimedia, interactive pieces and light to tell the story of the Cathedral Island and the beginnings of the Polish state. It’s a really unique place and definitely worth visiting during your trip to Poznań.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN POZNAŃ
Food and drink scene in Poznań caught me completely by surprise and I instantly fell in love with the beautifully designed and friendly cafes, and relaxed restaurants serving delicious food. I will write a separate blog post about all of my favourite foodie spots in the city but in the meantime here are some of my top recommendations.
For breakfast head to the Israeli restaurant Nadzieja (meaning hope) located on the ground floor of the Concordia Design office building just a short walk from the main train station. The stylish Bauhaus inspired interior gets flooded with light in the mornings creating a cosy and warm atmosphere. The space is decorated in creams, beiges and browns and all furnishings have been sourced exclusively from Polish brands.
The breakfast menu is full of utter deliciousness: think challah with orange syrup, roasted almonds, natural yoghurt and seasonal fruit, shakshuka with baked pumpkin, herb omelette with walnuts and barberries. Are you feeling hungry yet? I haven’t tried their evening menu but if the breakfast is anything to go by you’re in for a treat too!
Choosing my favourite cafe is virtually impossible, there were just so many amazing places I came across during my visit (and I still have a long list of places I didn’t get a chance to visit so now I have a perfect excuse to come back to Poznan!). Some of my top recommendations are Lastryko with their terrazzo themed interior and signature coconut and mango cheesecake, Miel specialty coffee shop which serves award winning Square Mile coffee and Roslinka which is a stylish cafe and a plant shop combo.
For dinner head to Dym na Wildzie, one of the friendliest neighbourhood restaurants I’ve ever been to. This place is so cosy don’t be surprised if you stay longer than expected eating, drinking and soaking up the atmosphere. The seasonal menu is themed around a wood burning grill on which the chef cooks meat and fish to perfection. Flavour combinations are inventive and everything tastes just as amazing as it looks. Oh and make sure to order one of their original wine spritzer jugs for the table, you won’t be disappointed!
I hope you enjoyed this guide to my favourite places in Poznań as much as I loved writing it! Have you been to Poznań before? If so, I’d love to read your recommendations and I just might add them to the list for my next visit. If you haven’t visited before, is Poznań on your bucket list? Let me know in the comments!
If you enjoyed this guide, check out my travel guide to the best things to see and do in Wrocław.
